How Sushi From Japan Became A Craze In India, From Fine Dining To Street Food

India is a very welcoming country. Atithi Devo Bhava is the basic tenet of the Indian hospitality and food circuit. So, we took the Chinese chow mein and made it into our desi chow mein, so much so that Indian Chinese food is now a separate cuisine altogether, a sort of a parallel dimension where the two neighbours coexist to keep Indian foodies happy and satiated.

Who can forget the simpleton Rani, played by Kangana Ranaut in the 2013 coming-of-age drama Queen, telling an Italian chef what all ingredients (including salt!) to add to the pasta, much to his shock and dismay. After all, we have added cottage cheese (our very own paneer) as a topping, over and above the cheese sprinkled on a pizza base. Can't blame the Italians.

Today, on June 18, as we mark International Sushi Day, we delve into the localisation of this traditional Japanese dish. It has come a long way, both geographically and that has made its way from being a fast food of the Chonins, a class subordinate to the Samurai warriors, during the the Edo period in Japan; earning a place of honour at high-end restaurants, to becoming available in food stalls by the streets of one of India's food capitals, Lucknow. Yes, sushi has taken over Chatori Gali too.

What Is Sushi

Sushi is simple. But simple doesn't mean it's easy. This traditional Japanese dish is typically made of two ingredients - raw fish and rice, and this rice is seasoned with sugar and salt. But there's no end when it comes to people's imagination. So, you can combine the vinegared rice with ingredients ranging from seafood, vegetables to meat.

What Makes Sushi So Popular In India

According to Malaysian-born Chef Eric Sifu, Chief Culinary Officer of Pebble Street Hospitality, sushi has found its audience in India because it reflects the values of a modern, well-travelled diner: clean flavours, balance, and a deep respect for ingredients.

"There's a growing appreciation for technique-driven cuisine, and sushi delivers on that with quiet confidence. Coming from Malaysia, where food is such an emotional and cultural anchor, I recognise that same passion here in India. Sushi resonates because it's both elevated and grounded. It doesn't need theatrics, just honesty on the plate," Chef Eric Sifu tells NDTV.

Sushi is a traditional Japanese dish, typically made of two ingredients - raw fish and rice. Photo: Unsplash

Like food is an inseparable part of life, the impact of sushi is deeper than the dish it is served in.

"To me, sushi is more than a dish, it's a discipline. It teaches restraint, precision, and respect for the ingredient in its purest form. In a world of constant noise and excess, sushi offers a rare kind of quiet; it invites you to slow down and notice the details. That's why I think it continues to speak across cultures and why it's earned its place in India's premium dining story," adds Chef Eric Sifu.

One of the reasons sushi is popular in India is because it is a major rice producing country and has a vast coastline with a fish-eating culture, says Swapnadeep Mukherjee, Executive Chef, the Metropolitan Hotel & Spa, New Delhi.

During the economic reforms in the 1990s, when the Indian government opened doors for foreign companies to invest in India, a lot of Japanese, Korean and people from other nationalities came to the country.

This pushed demand for the international standard of Japanese food in India thus giving rise to more Japanese outlets, adds Chef Mukherjee.

"With the boom in the travel and airlines industry, many Indians started travelling to various countries where they had Japanese food and when they came back to India, they had already developed a certain taste for the cuisine.

"Sakura at The Metropolitan Hotel & Spa started when Indians were not much exposed to Japanese cuisine. Being a pioneer of authentic Japanese cuisine, people found authentic Japanese food in Sakura and this made them the regular patrons. Now Sakura has a large number of Indian food lovers as well," he says.

Japanese Sushi Goes Desi

Sushi has been moulded according to the wide-ranging Indian palette. So, there's achari sushi, paneer tikka sushi, Jain sushi, and even Arabic sushi.

Chef Eric Sifu says sushi being assimilated into Indian food culture is an organic and exciting evolution.

"The Indian dining landscape is incredibly dynamic, and the way sushi has been embraced speaks volumes about how open and globally aware today's audience is. For me, it's about respecting the DNA of sushi - balance, simplicity, and purity - even as we reinterpret it in ways that connect with local palates. That's the sweet spot: when tradition and innovation speak to each other."

Like many popular international dishes, sushi has been embraced by the Indian food circuit. Photo: Unsplash

Sushi becoming part of Indian food culture is a welcome development as it "promotes a healthy diet and lifestyle", says Chef Swapnadeep Mukherjee.

"From seeing guests as a novice to this dish many years ago to rise to being part of the culture is a huge change, and as a Japanese chef for more than 20 years, it makes me really feel happy to know that they now appreciate tastefully presented experimental food," he adds.

The Many Types Of Desi Sushi

"I lean toward optimism," says Chef Eric Sifu, whose Pebble Street Hospitality portfolio of pan-India restaurants includes Foo and KOKO.

"Sushi has always had room for expression, that's part of its appeal. What matters is the 'why' behind the change. At Foo and KOKO, we do explore new forms and flavour profiles, but always from a place of understanding the tradition. As long as the foundation of the technique is solid, then innovation can enrich, not dilute, the narrative of sushi," he further says.

For Chef Eric Sifu, it's encouraging to see sushi reaching a wider audience through premium formats. "The increased exposure has helped people understand that sushi isn't just raw fish, it's a disciplined craft that's incredibly nuanced. We focus on making that experience both approachable and elevated. What's important is that as the category grows, the precision and intention behind every roll or nigiri remain non-negotiable."

Sushi On Indian Streets

Chef Swapnadeep Mukherjee is of the view that as long as "hygiene and freshness is maintained by local street shops and the taste appeals to a large number of people", there is nothing wrong in promoting sushi to every household, or street stall.

"Experimenting is part of human nature, till the core and essence of the dish is not compromised. New ideas or dishes are always exciting. An amalgamation of Indo-Japanese cuisine is an absolute delight for sushi lovers.

"Crafting sushi is an artistry - making it eye pleasing, working with flavours of the basic ingredients to shine through without too much seasoning, type of knife used to create the dish, cutting techniques and much more. So, next time enjoy your sushi first with eyes and then with the palate," he adds.

As India embraces sushi, and experiments with its flavours, colours and ingredients, it is only a matter of time before we see a sub-cuisine rising: Indian Japanese. With sushi as its main character.